“Sometime when we’re going through here, we should stop and check out this little town.”
That's what I said the last time we rolled through Goldfield, Nevada, crawling along at 25 miles per hour. I admired the interesting old stone buildings and artsy places overflowing with antiques.
"One of these days..." I sighed as the tiny town disappeared around a corner.
Well, this year we finally made it happen.
In October, the 5800-foot elevation brings chilly nights but pleasant daytime temps. Although we love to boondock (camp without hookups) this weather calls for an RV park. At least for one of us. I like to think I carry my own summer around, but my husband? Not so much. When temperatures dip, he likes to plant himself in front of his space heater and soak it in. Hence our migration south for the winter.
From Walker Lake, I called ahead to Goldfield Miner’s Camp. They aren’t the only RV park in town, but glowing reviews and a spot for us clinched it. At first we asked for one night. Explore the town the afternoon of our arrival, then head out the next morning. But the more we thought about it, why rush? The temperatures in Yuma, our final destination, were still in the 90s. So, with three leisurely days to explore, we took our time.
It's an easy two-hour drive from Walker Lake, though Goldfield has no gas or grocery. Forewarned, we stopped in Tonopah to stock up. Twenty-six miles farther, we pulled into Goldfield and got set up. Before dinner, we took a short walk, snapping pictures along the way. The Chamber of Commerce Building was closed, but the outside wall offered a treasure trove of pamphlets and a handy town map.
The next day, map in hand, we set out to explore. The railroad looked like a trek on paper, but was a lovely walk and worth every step. Beyond the railroad, we spotted three wild burros that wander about town, leaving 'souvenirs' behind them.
Mid-tour, my daughter called. Soon I was video chatting with her and the grandkids, showing them the sights in real time. Their "Ooh, look at that!" and "What's that, Grandma?" made the day even better. They all share a love of vintage things, making it a treat for all of us.
Goldfield was quiet midweek. A small town is like that. But we peeked through windows at beautiful turn-of-the-century woodwork, an open bank vault, teller windows, and artifacts. Clearly a museum.
The Goldfield Hotel especially caught my eye. Built in 1907 at the height of the gold rush--that lasted until 1912--it has striking architecture. It must have been a beauty in its time. A 'for-sale' sign sits in front now. Oh, for the means to bring it back to life!
A fire in 1923 wiped out half the town, but the stone and brick buildings survived. A few wooden structures still cling on too, adding rustic charm. At its gold rush peak, 20,000 people lived here. Now, it’s home to a few hundred hardy souls who embrace its “living ghost town” vibe.
Here’s something you don’t hear every day: Esmeralda County has no building codes. None. Want to design your own castle, spaceship, or shoebox home? Go for it. Just don’t expect a bank loan. Even so, the newer homes we saw were surprisingly well built—and delightfully unique.
On our second full day, a thunderstorm rolled in. Entertained, I watched as the leading edge of rain marched toward us, then raindrops danced on our roof before passing on. Later I stepped out to enjoy the scent of the rain-washed air.
We have now added this to our list of great places to stop. Though compact, this RV park is welcoming and well managed. Interesting places to explore as we walk are another plus. And the higher elevation keeps the day temperatures comfortable, especially if Yuma is still hotter than we are ready to face.
By the time we left, Goldfield had earned a solid spot on our “must-return” list. The Miner’s Camp is small but welcoming, with friendly management and walkable surroundings full of character. And at this elevation, the days stay pleasant providing a great place to prolong our arrival in Yuma.
Not bad for a little town we almost kept passing by.
